Whoops, wrote this put never posted the draft!
John and I are just back from spending two weeks in Corsica on our belated honeymoon. It was completely gorgeous, with perfect weather, amazing landscapes, and fantastic food. Learning a smattering of basic French helped out a bit in navigating things, though the people were almost universally friendly and helpful which made things much easier.
We flew out direct landing at the Bastia airport in the morning and taking a leisurely three hour train ride across the island to Calvi. This was a nice introduction, we had a couple of hour in Bastia first and managed to get suitably hot, hungry, and irritable with each other before realizing the problem and eating a lovely meal of moules et frites, drinking a Pietra, and starting to get into the vacation groove. Once we were feeling human again we found the cleverly hidden train station and had time for some dessert before heading off.
We spent the first week. This was the relaxathon, beach and food stage of the trip in what I believe is the more touristy and resort-like part of Corsica. The prices were pretty reasonable considering and the overall feeling was pretty damned luxurious if I’m honest.
In addition to eating tons of really great food we mostly visited the beach and swam. On more adventurous days we took a boat tour to see Scandola, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and also went snorkling nearby on a different day. We also visited the Citadel and it’s rather odd Cathedral of St. John the Babtist. The view from the walls is pretty incredible and it is easy to see why it was so impregnable.
After a week of relaxing we took the train back across to Bastia, which is a bit more urban. Our hotel here was unfortunately a little bit further than we had thought though still walkable from the city centre. Luckily the pools was really nice and the room had a small balcony so we chose to stick close on a couple of days and just get some food to eat in. After the initial couple of walks through the somewhat terrifying sidewalk-free road to town we explored and discovered it was possible to cut through to the town of San Martino di Lota and avoid the worst of it. Since the town is a) beautiful and b) has a pizzeria and a boulangerie this worked out quite nicely and supplied several of our meals.
In Bastia itself we found the cuisine similar to Calvi but with more seafood on the menus and took full advantage of that. We visited all the churches listed in the guidebook, wandered the streets enjoying the weather, and saw the much larger Calvi citadelle with its museum and gardens.
On the last day John rented a car and we drove up along the coastal road through Cap Corse. The landscape was again completely stunning, a bit more mountainous than Calvi with more dramatic seaside views alternating between rocky shores and bright blue sandy coves. There were signal towers every few kilometres and intriguing little towns dotted through the hills. We had hoped to eat someplace along the way but timed it poorly since most places don’t serve during lunchtime hours, so we drove back to Bastia and had a relaxing last meal in our room with pizza from the local San Martino di Lota.